Online Motorcycle Trader Classifieds » google Buy, Sell , Swap or Research Motorcycles Sat, 19 May 2012 04:11:44 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 Know Where To Ride Motorcycles In Northern California /?p=8353 /?p=8353#comments Wed, 09 May 2012 20:57:32 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/know-where-to-ride-motorcycles-in-northern-california-4/
MotoSFO site
MotoSFO site

There are lots of sites out there that have route descriptions for great motorcycle rides, almost all using crowdsourcing. But here’s a site that will tell you very well where to ride in Northern California, and all the rides have been created by several knowledgeable local “guides”.

The site, MotoSFO, was created under the leadership of Carla King, well known adventure rider and author. Together with several other, mostly female, bikers she’s put together a comprehensive database of routes to put your motorcycle on when you are in Northern California.

The itineraries are not some generic database, but a well laid out travelogue of the route. There are the inescapable Google Maps with the actual route, but also the recommended restaurants and hotels/B&Bs.

Click on the headline to continue reading this story…….

…
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]]> /?feed=rss2&p=8353 0 Shopping for a Used Motorcycle /?p=7834 /?p=7834#comments Wed, 04 Apr 2012 23:13:37 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/shopping-for-a-used-motorcycle/ Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel 



Buying a used
motorcycle intelligently requires considerably greater effort than just walking
into a showroom and selecting a new one. There are both risks and rewards with
a previously owned machine. You can get far more bang for your buck, while
letting the original buyer take the big depreciation loss. A used motorcycle
purchase can have pitfalls though, so you’ll want to do some homework
beforehand.



Before You Buy


Determine
realistically what your budget is, and be sure to include money for potential
repairs, tax, registration fees, and insurance. Next, choose the category of
machine you’d like, such as touring, sportbike, cruiser, naked, sport-touring, or dual
sport. Deciding what make, model, and year you want makes searching simpler,
but it also could prevent you from finding a great deal on a comparable model.

Once you
narrow down what you’re looking for, familiarize yourself with market values.
There are price guides with extensive free listings, such as Kelly Blue Book
and National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA). You can also get a good
idea of what models are selling for by looking in large metropolitan newspapers,
owner’s club magazines, and CycleTrader.com.

Research the
common problems of the models you’re shopping for online (use a search engine
such as Google) and by talking with enthusiasts. Some brands and models are
very expensive to maintain. Before shopping, familiarize yourself with the cost
of replacement parts and labor for service, such as valve adjustments on the
specific model. Don’t be in a rush, and try to avoid buying the first bike you
see unless it’s truly a great deal. 

Too many
buyers shop strictly by lowest price. It’s easy to overlook or minimize the
amount of work a bike needs and the cost of repairs. Often a more expensive
bike in better condition turns out to be the best value in the long run. If you
plan to ride regularly for commuting, rather than just occasionally, then a
low-mileage machine may make more sense.

Inspection and Test-Ride

Before even
going to look at a motorcycle, ask the seller to email some high-quality
digital pictures that show overall condition and close-up details in good
light. And when you’re ready to go looking, never shop after dark or in
inclement weather, as you’re likely to miss issues that would be more obvious
in the light of day. Also, even if you are knowledgeable about motorcycles,
bring an informed friend for a second opinion. If that’s not possible, find a
shop that will do a pre-purchase inspection for you, and get the seller’s
permission in advance. 

When you go
shopping, you’ll want your inspection to identify any signs of wear and tear
from use, damage from abuse, crashes, or tip-overs, neglect from skipped
maintenance, and exposure to the elements. Some of these potential problems can
be determined just by looking, while others will require starting the engine
and taking a test-ride.

Ask the seller
not to start the bike before you arrive, as starting the bike cold will tell
you more about its condition. Check the oil color: honey-colored indicates
recently changed; black means old oil and neglect; white milky streaks indicate
coolant is leaking into the oil; and metal flecks show major engine damage.
Note how readily the engine cranks over and fires up, listen for unusual
noises, and look for smoke. Blue smoke indicates oil consumption, while black
smoke is from excessive fuel richness. Ask to see all service records and
receipts.

Inspect the
electrical system, gauges, battery, and lights. Test all accessories, lights,
and switches. The sound of the starter cranking (if so equipped) is a fairly
good indicator of the condition of both the battery and the starter.

On liquid-cooled bikes, check coolant level and color, but only open the
radiator cap when the engine is cool. Coolant should be green, not rusty or
murky brown, which is a clear sign of neglect. Oil in the coolant probably
means major internal damage. Also, no coolant is very bad. 

Many sellers
will let you test the bike if you ride a motorcycle there, behave seriously and
responsibly, inspect the bike thoroughly first, and have the money to buy. Do a
pre-ride safety check and then take it for a careful test. Feel how the clutch
engages – does it chatter or slip? Does it fully release when squeezed? Also
note how the transmission operates – be on the lookout for false neutrals, hard
shifting, noise, and jumping out of gear. Apply the
brakes and push down on the suspension, noting how it responds. Test the brakes
and controls for lever response and effectiveness. Without a test ride you
can’t check these items properly.

On belt-drive
bikes, check the condition of the belt and pulleys. On shaft-drive bikes, look
for signs of oil leakage, and listen for noise when you test ride it. If the
bike has chain drive, check the condition of the chain and sprockets. When
stopped, grab the chain at the rear-most point, on the rear sprocket, and pull
backward. If you can pull it off the sprocket enough to expose half of a
sprocket tooth or more, it’s worn out. Hooked sprocket teeth require replacement.

If the
handlebar seems out of alignment with the front wheel or anything looks
crooked, the bike has probably been crashed. Check for problems such as a
cracked or bent frame, fork, or swingarm. Also, inspect forks and shocks for
leaks, scratches, rust, and bending. Look for changed or mismatched colors,
damaged handlebars, mirrors, clutch/brake levers or turn signals. Be aware of
dents or scrapes in the gas tank or exhaust, and broken or cracked plastic
panels (sometimes covered by stickers). Additional signs of crashing are
parallel scratches on engine cases, frame, fenders, and fairings.

Plating,
paint, and bright work are very expensive to replace, and corrosion can cause
all sorts of problems. Faded and weathered paint, decals, seats, gauges, and
windscreens, plus rust, and pitted chrome and aluminum show that a bike was
left uncovered, outdoors, for long periods. Peek inside the tank with your
flashlight for rust and sediment, and sniff for stale gas, which smells like
old varnish. If the gas is old and the bike doesn’t run well, it’ll need a
thorough fuel-system service.

Check tires for cracks,
tread depth and age. Look at both sides of both wheels for dents, cracks and
damaged spokes. See if they wobble when turned. Tires should be replaced after
five or six years, so be sure to inspect the date code, which is indicated by
the last four digits following the DOT stamp on the sidewall. The third and
forth digits from the end reference the week, while the last two digits
indicate the year of manufacture. For example a date code of 2409 means the
24th week of 2009. Items such as tires, batteries, chains and sprockets are
readily replaced and shouldn’t be deal-breakers, but their price with labor
should be deducted.

Aftermarket
parts such as hop-up kits, loud racing exhausts, rubber chunks around rear
tires, etc. may indicate abuse. Holes drilled through the heads of bolts for
safety-wire on brake caliper bolts, exhaust, engine, or drain plugs, show it
was a race bike – which likely means lots of wear and tear.

Before
purchase, ask about everything related to the bike, including keys, any free or
included spare parts, plus the toolkit, owner’s manual, service manual, etc.
Keep notes of all the pros and cons of each bike you look at and take
photographs too. List the problems you find, and then use these in negotiating
a good price, if necessary.

Buyer Beware

Try to shop locally.
If a used motorcycle is far away, then it’s difficult to inspect the machine
prior to purchase, and it’s costly to transport it. Sellers often
optimistically rate the condition of their machine, but when you inspect the
bike, it may be nowhere near as good as you expected. If you’ve traveled far,
the effort expended could coerce you into making a purchase.

Consider what
travel expenses and/or shipping costs will add to the purchase price. If you
know someone who lives near the seller, ask if s/he will inspect it for you and
verify the condition before you buy it.

Any time
something seems too good to be true, it probably is. Often, the reason a bike
is priced inexpensively is because it has serious problems. If there aren’t
mechanical issues, it may have a salvage title, which could indicate major
damage, or even stolen property with forged paperwork. Also, in some states,
the buyer may be left with expensive penalties and renewal fees for an expired
registration.

Before money
changes hands, carefully compare the VIN on the frame and engine, to the VIN on
the title. Verify that there’s a clear title in the name of the seller, without
any lien holders, and get a signed bill of sale. Check the mileage recorded on
the title, and also note if the indicated mileage is consistent with the bike’s
condition.

As for the
seller, know whom you’re dealing with. Ask to see a photo driver’s license, and
compare the name and address to that on the title. Get a phone number and an
actual address (not a PO box number), and then verify the information. Also
watch out for scams, such as when a seller asks you for a substantial deposit
up front and then disappears. It may seem like a nuisance, but the effort you
expend now will pay big dividends later when you’ll be enjoying the long
life-span of your used bike.

Go to Source

]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7834 0 Shopping for a Used Motorcycle /?p=7835 /?p=7835#comments Wed, 04 Apr 2012 23:13:36 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/shopping-for-a-used-motorcycle-2/ Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel 



Buying a used
motorcycle intelligently requires considerably greater effort than just walking
into a showroom and selecting a new one. There are both risks and rewards with
a previously owned machine. You can get far more bang for your buck, while
letting the original buyer take the big depreciation loss. A used motorcycle
purchase can have pitfalls though, so you’ll want to do some homework
beforehand.



Before You Buy


Determine
realistically what your budget is, and be sure to include money for potential
repairs, tax, registration fees, and insurance. Next, choose the category of
machine you’d like, such as touring, sportbike, cruiser, naked, sport-touring, or dual
sport. Deciding what make, model, and year you want makes searching simpler,
but it also could prevent you from finding a great deal on a comparable model.

Once you
narrow down what you’re looking for, familiarize yourself with market values.
There are price guides with extensive free listings, such as Kelly Blue Book
and National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA). You can also get a good
idea of what models are selling for by looking in large metropolitan newspapers,
owner’s club magazines, and CycleTrader.com.

Research the
common problems of the models you’re shopping for online (use a search engine
such as Google) and by talking with enthusiasts. Some brands and models are
very expensive to maintain. Before shopping, familiarize yourself with the cost
of replacement parts and labor for service, such as valve adjustments on the
specific model. Don’t be in a rush, and try to avoid buying the first bike you
see unless it’s truly a great deal. 

Too many
buyers shop strictly by lowest price. It’s easy to overlook or minimize the
amount of work a bike needs and the cost of repairs. Often a more expensive
bike in better condition turns out to be the best value in the long run. If you
plan to ride regularly for commuting, rather than just occasionally, then a
low-mileage machine may make more sense.

Inspection and Test-Ride

Before even
going to look at a motorcycle, ask the seller to email some high-quality
digital pictures that show overall condition and close-up details in good
light. And when you’re ready to go looking, never shop after dark or in
inclement weather, as you’re likely to miss issues that would be more obvious
in the light of day. Also, even if you are knowledgeable about motorcycles,
bring an informed friend for a second opinion. If that’s not possible, find a
shop that will do a pre-purchase inspection for you, and get the seller’s
permission in advance. 

When you go
shopping, you’ll want your inspection to identify any signs of wear and tear
from use, damage from abuse, crashes, or tip-overs, neglect from skipped
maintenance, and exposure to the elements. Some of these potential problems can
be determined just by looking, while others will require starting the engine
and taking a test-ride.

Ask the seller
not to start the bike before you arrive, as starting the bike cold will tell
you more about its condition. Check the oil color: honey-colored indicates
recently changed; black means old oil and neglect; white milky streaks indicate
coolant is leaking into the oil; and metal flecks show major engine damage.
Note how readily the engine cranks over and fires up, listen for unusual
noises, and look for smoke. Blue smoke indicates oil consumption, while black
smoke is from excessive fuel richness. Ask to see all service records and
receipts.

Inspect the
electrical system, gauges, battery, and lights. Test all accessories, lights,
and switches. The sound of the starter cranking (if so equipped) is a fairly
good indicator of the condition of both the battery and the starter.

On liquid-cooled bikes, check coolant level and color, but only open the
radiator cap when the engine is cool. Coolant should be green, not rusty or
murky brown, which is a clear sign of neglect. Oil in the coolant probably
means major internal damage. Also, no coolant is very bad. 

Many sellers
will let you test the bike if you ride a motorcycle there, behave seriously and
responsibly, inspect the bike thoroughly first, and have the money to buy. Do a
pre-ride safety check and then take it for a careful test. Feel how the clutch
engages – does it chatter or slip? Does it fully release when squeezed? Also
note how the transmission operates – be on the lookout for false neutrals, hard
shifting, noise, and jumping out of gear. Apply the
brakes and push down on the suspension, noting how it responds. Test the brakes
and controls for lever response and effectiveness. Without a test ride you
can’t check these items properly.

On belt-drive
bikes, check the condition of the belt and pulleys. On shaft-drive bikes, look
for signs of oil leakage, and listen for noise when you test ride it. If the
bike has chain drive, check the condition of the chain and sprockets. When
stopped, grab the chain at the rear-most point, on the rear sprocket, and pull
backward. If you can pull it off the sprocket enough to expose half of a
sprocket tooth or more, it’s worn out. Hooked sprocket teeth require replacement.

If the
handlebar seems out of alignment with the front wheel or anything looks
crooked, the bike has probably been crashed. Check for problems such as a
cracked or bent frame, fork, or swingarm. Also, inspect forks and shocks for
leaks, scratches, rust, and bending. Look for changed or mismatched colors,
damaged handlebars, mirrors, clutch/brake levers or turn signals. Be aware of
dents or scrapes in the gas tank or exhaust, and broken or cracked plastic
panels (sometimes covered by stickers). Additional signs of crashing are
parallel scratches on engine cases, frame, fenders, and fairings.

Plating,
paint, and bright work are very expensive to replace, and corrosion can cause
all sorts of problems. Faded and weathered paint, decals, seats, gauges, and
windscreens, plus rust, and pitted chrome and aluminum show that a bike was
left uncovered, outdoors, for long periods. Peek inside the tank with your
flashlight for rust and sediment, and sniff for stale gas, which smells like
old varnish. If the gas is old and the bike doesn’t run well, it’ll need a
thorough fuel-system service.

Check tires for cracks,
tread depth and age. Look at both sides of both wheels for dents, cracks and
damaged spokes. See if they wobble when turned. Tires should be replaced after
five or six years, so be sure to inspect the date code, which is indicated by
the last four digits following the DOT stamp on the sidewall. The third and
forth digits from the end reference the week, while the last two digits
indicate the year of manufacture. For example a date code of 2409 means the
24th week of 2009. Items such as tires, batteries, chains and sprockets are
readily replaced and shouldn’t be deal-breakers, but their price with labor
should be deducted.

Aftermarket
parts such as hop-up kits, loud racing exhausts, rubber chunks around rear
tires, etc. may indicate abuse. Holes drilled through the heads of bolts for
safety-wire on brake caliper bolts, exhaust, engine, or drain plugs, show it
was a race bike – which likely means lots of wear and tear.

Before
purchase, ask about everything related to the bike, including keys, any free or
included spare parts, plus the toolkit, owner’s manual, service manual, etc.
Keep notes of all the pros and cons of each bike you look at and take
photographs too. List the problems you find, and then use these in negotiating
a good price, if necessary.

Buyer Beware

Try to shop locally.
If a used motorcycle is far away, then it’s difficult to inspect the machine
prior to purchase, and it’s costly to transport it. Sellers often
optimistically rate the condition of their machine, but when you inspect the
bike, it may be nowhere near as good as you expected. If you’ve traveled far,
the effort expended could coerce you into making a purchase.

Consider what
travel expenses and/or shipping costs will add to the purchase price. If you
know someone who lives near the seller, ask if s/he will inspect it for you and
verify the condition before you buy it.

Any time
something seems too good to be true, it probably is. Often, the reason a bike
is priced inexpensively is because it has serious problems. If there aren’t
mechanical issues, it may have a salvage title, which could indicate major
damage, or even stolen property with forged paperwork. Also, in some states,
the buyer may be left with expensive penalties and renewal fees for an expired
registration.

Before money
changes hands, carefully compare the VIN on the frame and engine, to the VIN on
the title. Verify that there’s a clear title in the name of the seller, without
any lien holders, and get a signed bill of sale. Check the mileage recorded on
the title, and also note if the indicated mileage is consistent with the bike’s
condition.

As for the
seller, know whom you’re dealing with. Ask to see a photo driver’s license, and
compare the name and address to that on the title. Get a phone number and an
actual address (not a PO box number), and then verify the information. Also
watch out for scams, such as when a seller asks you for a substantial deposit
up front and then disappears. It may seem like a nuisance, but the effort you
expend now will pay big dividends later when you’ll be enjoying the long
life-span of your used bike.

Go to Source

]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7835 0 Sugar Shout Out: Get Red Wine Stains Out With Ease /?p=7318 /?p=7318#comments Fri, 24 Feb 2012 09:20:19 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/sugar-shout-out-get-red-wine-stains-out-with-ease/


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]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7318 0 Harley Davidson motorcycles Auto Expo 2012 /?p=7266 /?p=7266#comments Tue, 21 Feb 2012 14:55:17 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/harley-davidson-motorcycles-auto-expo-2012-3/ http://iGyaan.in Check out our new Channel http://youtube.com/iGyaanTV and Subscribe.
http://Facebook.com/iGyaan catch us on facebook
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]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7266 0 This Site Has A New Commenting System /?p=7136 /?p=7136#comments Sun, 12 Feb 2012 09:05:40 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/this-site-has-a-new-commenting-system/
Disqus logo

We have had to switch to yet another commenting system, since Google has withdrawn its Google Friend Connect system. All previous comments are lost (thanks Google for not enabling us to export old comments).

The new commenting system, DISQUS, is powerful, and you can use it anonymous, or using your Facebook, Twitter, Google, Yahoo, OpenId log on.

However, thanks to the millions of spammers out there, all comments are moderated, so will not show up immediately. Sorry…

Let me know what you think about the new system… please..

…
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]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7136 0 Liquid Image: Ultimate HD Camera Goggles For Motorcycles /?p=7055 /?p=7055#comments Wed, 08 Feb 2012 09:02:43 +0000 admin /?p=7055
Liquid Image Torque HD Goggle
Liquid Image Torque HD Goggle

Liquid Image, a company that makes extreme sports video cameras, have recently released the Torque HD camera goggles for motorcycle helmets.

The Torque HD video camera google not only record in full HD (1080p), or at 720 but at 60 fps, but it also streams to a smartphone app via onboard WiFi.

The motorcycle goggles will be available mid this year for US$399.

…
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]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7055 0 Liquid Image: Ultimate HD Camera Goggles For Motorcycles /?p=7054 /?p=7054#comments Wed, 08 Feb 2012 09:02:37 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/liquid-image-ultimate-hd-camera-goggles-for-motorcycles/
Liquid Image Torque HD Goggle
Liquid Image Torque HD Goggle

Liquid Image, a company that makes extreme sports video cameras, have recently released the Torque HD camera goggles for motorcycle helmets.

The Torque HD video camera google not only record in full HD (1080p), or at 720 but at 60 fps, but it also streams to a smartphone app via onboard WiFi.

The motorcycle goggles will be available mid this year for US$399.

…
Go to Source

]]> /?feed=rss2&p=7054 0 Yamaha Launches OHV Access Initiative GRANT-Tracking Map /?p=4513 /?p=4513#comments Fri, 05 Aug 2011 23:34:34 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/yamaha-launches-ohv-access-initiative-grant-tracking-map/ Yamaha Motor Corp., U.S.A., is proud to announce the launch of its OHV Access Initiative GRANT-tracker interactive Google map, a visual snapshot of the program’s activity across the country.
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]]> /?feed=rss2&p=4513 0 bmw r75 or early ww2 harley look a likes or custom builds? /?p=3719 /?p=3719#comments Fri, 24 Jun 2011 13:40:14 +0000 admin http://motorcycletrader.info/topics/bmw-r75-or-early-ww2-harley-look-a-likes-or-custom-builds/ Im totally in love with early motorcycle design specifically those listed above, only problem is im not made of money. is there a frame out there where i could build my own look a like or maybe a company who sells something similar?

I can only answer the harley side of your question. Parts to build a war era harley are readily available on ebay, or paughco.com, and 45depot.com. Finding a complete basket case at a reasonable price is unlikely. Paughco is more the custom route, and they have everything from parts to a complete kit bike. 45 depot has replica stock parts including frames and complete engines for stock civilian or military specs. It still costs money, but it can be done a lot cheaper than buying a correct original. Google the places I mentioned and see if thats the look you’re into. An easier alternative? The harley "crossbones" was available in olive green a couple of years ago. It kind of replicates what a military bike may have looked like after the war. These bikes were cheap and plentiful then, and many service men like my grandfather snapped them up and "bobbed "them.(removed unnecessary parts to reduce weight and increase speed-there were no performance parts then). good luck!

]]> /?feed=rss2&p=3719 0